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Posts tagged ‘jewellery making’

My new blow torch

I was very excited to pick up a shiny new blow torch from the post office! I guess that’s not something everyone would get excited about, but I certainly did.

I use an LP gas bottle for my jewellery making work in my home studio, which is less than ideal for what I do. However, it avoids expensive insurance issues and other complications were I to use an oxy-acetylene set up inside my house or something similar.

The biggest downside has been the torch I’ve needed to use with the gas bottle up until now – a big, clunky, heavy Primus torch with a fairly inflexible hose which results in a sore hand and wrist if I need to do a lot of soldering. It’s just not designed for jewellery making.

In addition, the flame cannot be varied – there’s no way to add or reduce the amount of oxygen in it, which is a useful thing to be able to do.


My old Primus torch and the new Orca one side by side.

However, I’ve been using this torch for years and have adapted to it and have tended to notice the problems with it less over time.

But finally I found a much better alternative after a friend told me about a new torch she’d discovered which is designed to work with LPG bottles and is intended to be used for jewellery making and other fine work. So I invested in one!

My new torch is an Orca and compared to my old Primus one it’s unbelievably lightweight, which makes me very happy. It comes with three different sized tips which are easy to swap around. And the hose is light and flexible.

And best of all it has an oxygen inlet which draws in an adjustable amount of oxygen from the air around the torch. It’s still not as good as having air pumped in to it by way of an air compressor or oxygen bottle, but it’s a huge improvement on having no flame changing ability.

So today I’m feeling very happy about my new torch and I’m very much looking forward to putting it to use!

The hammer of doom!

A photograph of my hammer.Yesterday I spent several hours finalising some designs for a new range of work.

I ended up with numerous sketches and wanted to get to my bench to start testing them – figuring out the best sizes to make and how best to complete them and what other materials would complement each piece.

I was feeling very enthusiastic about this work and was enjoying getting these new pieces underway so I could get the shiny new designs pinned down and evolved into a form I was happy with.

And then, only about half an hour into my work, the Hammer of Doom struck!

I was punching out some circles in sterling silver with a much larger hammer than I use for most of my work and using a fair bit of force to get a nice clean cut … and somehow entirely missed the punch I was using. The hammer came down directly onto the middle joint of my thumb, side on.

OUCH!!!!!

My thumb was resting against a steel plate and it was at that point that it was most badly damaged – the opposite side from where I hit it. The skin ruptured and there was blood everywhere … and I very nearly fainted!

I was home alone and the nearest friend who could help me was over an hour’s drive away, so I had to do my best to sort myself out and just deal with it. So I bandaged it up, wrapped it in an ice pack, decided it wasn’t broken and spent the rest of the evening lolling on the couch, feeling quite shaken up.

Now it’s the next day and it’s very painful and swollen, but it will be okay, I’m sure.

However, it means that my plans to get the new range well underway this week have been halted. I’m not going to risk going back to my bench until the injury is a lot better as I need to avoid using the joint too much – and of course don’t want to risk hitting it again!

Anyway, I just thought I’d share the fact that I’ve been suffering for my art! And not for the first time, I have to say.

Q&A in The Jewelry Report

A while back I answered some questions for an article by the lovely Angela of The Jewelry Report, a blog for jewellery makers. I really enjoyed answering the questions as many were specific to the process of making jewellery and written by someone who knows a thing or two about it.

The resulting article has an introduction to make me blush:

Australian jeweler, Simone Walsh, is an inspiration to all one-man-band jewelery designs. Not only does her jewelry reflect a sense of originality and dedicated to quality, but her success is a testament to her hard work and dedication to being a successful business woman. Yet every…single…piece is completely handmade. Here she gives us some insight into that productivity, and I really feel that this gal is someone that many aspiring jewelers, and established jewelers alike can (and should) look up to.

So if you’re interested in reading the rest of the article with the Q&A I completed you can find it right here on The Jewelry Report.

Tumbling away

I spent some time at my bench this weekend making some jewellery for one of my consignment outlets along with for my own stocks. And the results of my labour all needed to be tumbled in steel shot to become bright and shiny.

Handmade jewellery fresh from my new tumbler.
A batch of handmade jewellery fresh from my new tumbler.

Recently I purchased a sparkly new Lorotone tumbler to replace the wonderful but now old and slightly decrepit tumbler my Dad made for me years ago using bits from his shed).

It’s taking me a while to get used to the ways of my new tumbler. Because I’d used my old (and rather eccentric!) one for such a long time I knew exactly how much shot, water and tumbling compound it needed and exactly how long my work needed to be tumbled to get the result I wanted.

Of course my new tumbler is different and it will take me some experimenting to get those things right.

It’s been making me think about how very familiar we all become with the tools and equipment we use extensively. Changing those things can be a bit disorientating at times. But of course change can be a good thing!

A little bit of gold for a whole lot of money

Sometimes it feels a tad depressing to be working in a field where the cost of your materials is down to the sometimes extreme whims of a market which has absolutely nothing to do with what you make.

A small piece of 14ct gold in my hand.

At the moment both silver and gold are priced higher than they have been for a very long time. However, especially since the global economic crisis kicked off the price of gold has been going crazy as investors have been sinking their money into it, seeing it as a much safer bet than the stock market.

But as someone buying gold as a material to make jewellery with and not as an investment (or to make investment jewellery with), this is definitely unhelpful!

The photograph above is of a piece of 14ct gold (that’s 14kt for Americans) which is 0.5mm thick (0.02″) and 35mm tall and wide (1.4″). It set me back AU$245 (currently around US$200). Ouch!

Silver has also been going up and up for the past couple of years for all sorts of complex reasons. It is currently costing around double what it has done for most of my career. But to give an idea of how much more expensive gold is by comparison, 14ct gold is currently around 28 times more expensive per gram than sterling silver at trade cost.

Gold is a wonderful material to work with, but it does indeed hurt when a very small business like mine needs to purchase it.

As for what I’ll be making with my teensy little piece of gold … well I have a few ideas, but nothing concrete at this point. I have been using thinner gold as highlights in a few handmade jewellery pieces for a while now, but I would like to make some pieces where gold is more of a feature.

Stay tuned for details!

Back to the studio

Finally last weekend (which was a long one in Australia) I was able to get back to my jewellery bench, now set up in the studio space in my new home.

Sterling silver blossoms

I spent the weekend completing an order for the National Portrait Gallery shop in Canberra, along with making some urgently needed jewellery for my own supplies seeing as I’ve been badly running out of the jewellery in my shops.

Above are just a few of the little silver blossoms I cut out in sterling silver on the weekend. Each of them were then soaked to remove the paper (with the shape drawn on it), sanded, filed, tumbled and then finally turned into finished jewellery which was then tumbled again.

I seem to spend half of my life making these little blossoms as they form some of the most popular jewellery pieces I sell, so it was no surprise to spend my first weekend of making since moving doing yet more of them!

My jewellery studio.

As for how my new studio is working out, well so far so good! The space is almost fully set up, but there are a few loose ends to tidy up.

The only issue I found on the weekend was that the three large windows let in so much light (in spite of the room being painted so dark) that heating or soldering metal can be difficult because I can’t see what I’m doing! All I need to do is remember to pull a blind or two down before I start and it’s fine, however.

This is not going to be set up as my ‘dream studio’ seeing as I’m still renting and things like fume extraction, heavy equipment which should be bolted to the floor or heavy furniture, etc. are currently out of the question. But soon enough I hope to be working towards just that!

Still here!

This is a quick blog post to let people know that I’m still alive! Phew.

I’m working hard on pulling myself together after a very difficult end to 2007 and start to 2008 in terms of my health and ending up in a bit of a mess.

Unfortunately ‘working hard’ actually means taking a large number of things very slowly, something I’ve been finding frustrating as it’s so unlike me. However I’m coming to accept that is the way things need to be just now.

I’m also pulling back on a number of commitments – at least temporarily – having realised that I really do need to put my health ahead of all sorts of things just now, no matter how interesting those things might be.

However, I’ve still got some exciting plans for my business this year which I hope to be able to bring about – but they will happen more slowly than I would have liked and after a big reorganisation of the other things on my plate.

I’ve also got lots of ideas for new work which I’m hoping to start to deveop very soon. Thankfully making jewellery is going ahead at the usual pace!

As for blogging … I hope to be back to doing more of it very soon.

Just call me Gloria Gaynor!

The joys of saw piercing

I spent much of my weekend sawing out pieces of sterling silver, some of them into very intricate designs. While working I thought about the process of saw piercing and how much my own perception of it has changed over the past year or so.

Finished handmade components fresh from the tumbler.
Finished handmade jewelry and components fresh from the tumbler after a weekend of making.

I suspect it’s no accident that many courses teaching jewellery making from a metalworking perspective often have beginners start out by learning to saw shapes out of sheets of metal.

Of course many pieces of jewellery require saw piercing as the first step in making them, but I think more importantly saw piercing requires seemingly boundless amounts of patience, especially when starting out. And if there’s one thing that jewellery makers need to have in buckets it’s patience, along with a healthy dose of perseverance.

A day’s worth of broken saw blades.
A day’s worth of broken saw blades. Thanks to Shoshona Snow for this gorgeous little dish!

Saw blades used in a jeweller’s saw frame are incredibly fine. Even if beginners are started out on what more experienced makers would regard as thick blades, they are still much finer than most people will ever have used before. Also, sawing out shapes for jewellery very often requires the maker to saw out intricate and fluid designs with complex curves and sudden changes of direction.

A 5/0 saw blade against my hand. Sterling silver rubble after a weekend of saw piercing and other work.
Left: A 5/0 saw blade against my hand to give an idea of thickness (or lack thereof!). You can see a close up showing the tiny teeth of the blade on Flickr. Right: Sterling silver scrap caught by the pouch in my bench after a few days of saw piercing and other jewelry making work.

The result is broken saw blades – lots and lots (and lots!) of broken saw blades.

Of course beginners will break blades a lot more frequently than more experienced jewellery makers, but it’s something that still happens often no matter how much experience you have. As a beginner you will either learn to live with this and keep going or you will decide this world of jewellery making isn’t for you and will find another outlet for your creativity. And realising this sooner rather than later is always a good thing!

Obviously as a beginner I stuck with it, despite the large mounds of broken saw blades and the frustration of seemingly endlessly replacing them as I was learning. Patience is definitely one of my personal strong (and weak!) points, so jewellery making and me seem like a good fit.

However, I still didn’t exactly love the technique of sawing metal. It was something I had to do as part of making many designs, but I was never exactly fond of this aspect of my work and would avoid doing it when I could.

Then I read one little line in a technical book which changed my perception of saw piercing. It was simply that a saw blade is effectively like a tiny sliver of the cross-section of a file and that to a degree you are kind of filing metal when you are sawing. This led me to go off on a tangent and suddenly see saw piercing as being a little bit like carving – and I love the process of carving! I find it easy to get into ‘the zone’ with this sort of work and for me it’s a very fluid, organic process, which I very much enjoy.

So this simple change in perception completely turned my thinking about saw piercing on its head. Pretty much immediately I started to work on much more intricate pieces where the technique is really the focus of the finished jewellery. And of course my skill in this area of work continues to improve as I push myself.

Sterling silver butterfly pendant - detail - by Simone Walsh.
Sterling silver butterfly pendant.

One example of this in my current handmade jewellery range is the butterfly pendant I have been making in recent months – an extension of the butterfly wing pendant I have been making for a year or so now.

I now also often prefer to leave evidence of the saw piercing process in many of my pieces. For example, the marks from the saw blade can be seen in the pierced out sections of the butterfly wings. I like my work to look handmade and I love to leave traces of the process of making in my jewellery, and this is one example of doing so.

So as a result of one sentence in a book, for me saw piercing now really is a joy instead of a chore.

Except of course when I’m having one of those off days where I seem to break about ten times more saw blades than seems reasonable and even my patience is worn very thin! In which case it’s a good idea to simply do something else.

A spot of Ikea hacking

Finally this week I made myself complete a project which has been on my list of things to get done since the start of the year – creating a housing unit for my buffing machine.

Let me start out by saying that I hate buffing metal. This is partly because I’m no longer all that keen on a mirror finish to the work I create, but also because it’s dirty work and is perhaps the most dangerous work I do in my home studio. If I find my mind continually wandering while I’m buffing I generally stop and do something else in case I suddenly find myself without a hand or an eye or something – it’s one of those things where you have to be 100% ‘there’ to do safely.

Another reason I’ve been avoiding buffing for ages is that I’ve simply not had a proper housing for my old machine, which it needs for safety reasons (to catch anything which the buffing mop grabs from my hands – without throwing it back into my face and ideally without damaging the piece!) and to try to reduce the mess and the dust I inhale (so the housing should catch this too).

I live and work in a rented home and my small studio doubles as my office – I’m lacking in space and I can’t set up anything permanent. So I figured a box in which I can keep the machine when I’m not using it and which can be moved to a suitable space when I am using it would be ideal.

Ikea hacked buffing box   Buffing box with fabric ‘curtain’.

So here is what I came up with. It’s a very cheap Ikea bedside table which has an upper and lower shelf and is open at the front and back.

I bought some slightly ’sticky’ and paddd vinyl which is used to hold tablecloths in place and to protect tabletops. I tacked a panel of this across the back of the box on the outside and another larger panel into the interior from the front of the bottom of the top shelf all the way around to the bottom, providing plenty of padding.

This means there’s a double layer of the vinyl where the most grime and fluff will end up – and where my work is most likely to hit if it’s grabbed out of my hands. Plus the machine won’t move around given that the surface has some grip to it.

Then I threw a bit of fabric over it to keep the ugly machine and brown vinyl hidden from view when its not in use – plus of course the top can be used as a shelf and the interior can hold my mops and buffing compounds.

And that’s it! It’s obviously not as a good as a floor mounted housing unit with an extraction fan, but it’s a great solution for now – and an extremely inexpensive one. All I need to finish the job is a lamp which will clamp to the top of the box to give me a bit more light.